Sunday, November 20, 2005

Pilgrimage thoughts

It's amusing to me that everyone asks, "How was it?". There's no answer other than "fabulous!", although that doesn't even begin to describe it. Until you've been through such an experience, it's difficult to really understand the knowledge and insight gained, the spiritual level achieved, or the depth of emotion discovered. As anxious as I was by the end to get home and see family and friends, I am now equally excited to return. There's a magnetic force in the Holy Land that can't be explained and it calls my soul to return.

If you aren't already on the waiting list, take a moment right now and apply. It took me 7 years from my application to actually getting there. It's worth it, I promise.

Tuesday - Final Day! Monument Gardens, Bahji


Although there was no scheduled programme on this final day, I was up early to pack and check out of the hotel before taking one last visit to Bahji. I took a quick peek into the Monument Gardens, then a group of us took a Sherut to Bahji. A last visit like this is bitter-sweet. Enjoying the time and surroundings, while knowing I won't come back for a number of years. We spent several hours here before heading back to Haifa where I went to the Shrine of the Bab one last time for prayers. Then I met up one final time with Zac who (again!) brought me dinner and some gifts (for myself and for others back home). While the rest of the Pilgrims were preparing for the evening Pilgrim Farewell program, a small group of us with early flights called a sherut to the airport and said our goodbyes.

I was lucky enough to be chosen at the airport for a fine-tooth comb inspection but had left plenty of time to catch my flight. Unfortuantely, in a foreign country they apparantly don't care that you've selected a seat on the plane prior to arrival. I received a lovely middle seat near the rear of the aircraft. Well, I made it to NYC without incident where I discovered a nasty cold had taken hold of my body. I slept for 2 days, came home to Colorado on Friday and slept another 2!

Monday - Arc Tour, Cemetary, Cave of Elijah


The final organized programme of my Pilgrimage was Monday morning when we toured the Arc, which is the series of buildings on the hill near the Shrine of the Bab. These beautiful buildings house offices and facilities for the staff of the International Teaching Centre, the Universal House of Justice, and the Center for the Study of the Texts. Following a short tour of each building, we walked to the new Visitor's Information Center under the terrace that extends over Hatzionut St. We finished with prayers at the Western Pilgrim House and an impromtu group photo.

Having the rest of the day free, I walked down to Ben Gurion St. for lunch (via the street sidewalks, not the stairs!). I planned on making my way to the cemetary which was further down Allenby St. Not knowing exactly how far it was, I began by walking there. By the time I decided it was too far to really walk to, I was almost there so completed my hike! The Baha'i Cemetary is not very big, but as with all the Baha'i properties, is surrounded by gardens and flowers, blocking the noise of the nearby streets. I meet up here with a friend from my group and we walk together across the street and up to the lower Cave of Elijah. After spending a week at Baha'i Holy places, it was somewhat of a shock to enter this holy spot amid peddlers, trash, and dirty surroundings. You really couldn't see much of the cave, but it's nice to know where it likely was.

Having gotten my exercise for the day, I took a taxi to the top of the mountain where I completed my tourist-y shopping. I met up with Josephine and Ishmael at the PRC and we went back to Joe's flat for a dinner she prepared. Others joined us later in the evening and it was a nice time.

Sunday - Bahji Mansion, Abdullah Pasha house, Ridvan Garden


(Sorry for the delay on finishing these posts - fatigue and lack of time took over!)

This was our second long day on the bus, going from place to place in the Akka area. We began with another visit to Bahji, this time to tour the Mansion there where Baha'u'llah lived after being released from the Akka prison. The first thing to strike me as we enter is the beautiful colored stencilling all around the rooms and windows, both inside and out. Simple but striking. The upstairs living area we were able to see was very large, spacious, and beautifully furnished. I especially loved the covered balconies that looked out over the gardens.

Next, we had a quick visit to the old Pilgrim House next door, which is also near to the Shrine of Baha'u'llah. Small and just enough room for visitors of those days to refresh themselves. This was followed by a short amount of time in the Shrine, then lunch.

The next stop was the House of 'Abdullah Pasha in Akka, just outside the prison fortress. Although it's called a "house", at that time, it actually housed several families in the various wings, merchants on the lower floor as well as a school room. It's a huge complex that was originally the governor's residence. The garden in the courtyard has only recently been re-created to match what existed when 'Abdu'l-Baha and his family lived here. Shoghi Effendi was born here and used to run up and down the stone staircases, which had no railing at that time.

Finally, we stopped to visit the Ridvan Garden where Baha'u'llah was, in later years, able to spend some time away from the prison city and enjoy nature. It used to be an island between 2 rivers, but the rivers have since been diverted and dried up. "Ridvan" means "Paradise" and it surely was a paradise to those who visited it in the middle of the desert.

After a long day, we returned to Haifa where many of us got off on Ben Gurion street for some final shopping opportunities. I ate at a wonderful Kabob restaurant (though not quite as good as Grandma's!) then headed back to the PRC for a short rest before our evening talk. This final talk of our trip was given by UHJ Member Dr. Javahari who spoke on the purpose of Pilgrimage and what we should do with our experiences once we return home.

Saturday, November 12, 2005

Saturday - Master's House, Temple Land


Saturday began with our visit to 'Abdu'l-Baha's house in Haifa. It's near the lower terraces and very beautiful indeed. After a long, straight uphill walk back to the PRC, I rested a bit until my meeting time with Zac. I thought he was joining me for lunch, but discovered he merely brought it to me then was off on a trek of his own! Have I mentioned what wonderfully sweet boys these are? I then hooked up with the other family from Colorado and we visited the Temple Land obilesque, the site where a future House of Worship will be built. It will be a fabulous view of the Bay when finished! We walked back for a visit to the Shrines, I shared a nice long chat over dinner with a new friend, and our evening speaker was ITC member Mr. Riazati.

Friday - Archives & Singalong

Friday was a relaxing morning - slept in until 8:00! Spent the morning catching up on some e-mail, then walked down the hotel row by the Dan Panorama to do some shopping. Then it was already time to meet up with Zac who took me to Charles' flat where he had prepared a most excellent lunch for me. There was a movie on the television which we ended up watching in its entirety so that too was relaxing!

The only formal program of the day for me was the afternoon visit to the Archives Building. This is one of the highlights of trip as we get to view a photograph of Baha'u'llah, drawings of Him and The Bab, and many, many artifacts of historical interest. A wonderful opportunity, although feeling a bit long near the end! We did not return to the PRC until after 6:30, where Charles was waiting to escort me to the evening's African sing-a-long. They had long since finished dinner and started into speeches honoring their special guest, my fellow Pilgrim and hotel-mate, a Chief from Zambia. He is the first African Chief ever known to make the Pilgrimage visit. Several members of the UHJ and the ITC were on hand to celebrate the occassion. Other than the formalities associated with his visit, this sing-a-long was much like others I've seen in the states. Constant uplifting singing, drumming, and dancing! A very full, rich evening.

Friday, November 11, 2005

Thursday - Akka area


Today is our first of 2 long days. This means we leave the PRC at 8 am and don’t return until dinner time. The bus takes us first to the Prison City of Akka, across the bay from Haifa. This is where Bahá’u’llah, the Holy Family, and many of the believers were finally imprisoned after years of exile and moving. We had the bounty of seeing the second cell area where they were imprisoned. It’s actually a little larger than I had imagined, but fitting 13 people into one of those cells would indeed be crowded. It certainly puts an image to the stories I’ve heard for so many years. We then go to see and enter the land gate before heading to the House of Abbud. This beautiful home has an inner courtyard as you enter, before going up the steps to the main living area and another small outdoor courtyard. We spend an hour and half here then it’s back on the bus where we finally are taken to the Bahji Visitor’s Center where we can eat a late lunch. Our final stop of this long day is Mazra’il, a country house and gardens where Bahá’u’llah was first allowed out of the prison city. After returning to Haifa at the end of the day, I walk up a side street to a small coffee shop for a bite of dinner before our evening talk. UHJ member Mr. Grossman speaks to us on the subject of light. Once again, I find my eyelids heavy with sleep and am happy to return to the hotel and my bed!

Wednesday - Bahji again


My first semi-free day, so I choose to sleep in and rest a bit rather than try for dawn prayers. But not too much, as several groups are going on their own to Bahji. I join a group of 10 in a Sharut and have an hour and a half to spend in the Shrine and gardens. On the return ride, I ask the Sharut to drop me at the bottom of the Terraces on Ben Gurion street. 3 others join me for lunch and we have just enough time to climb the lower Terraces before our program begins. Climbing the Terraces can be strenuous, but if you take it slow and steady and rest on each Terrace a bit, it isn’t too bad! It’s definitely beautiful and worth the effort. Immediately after this climb, we must head to our program by ascending a set of public stairs to reach the Arc gate on Golomb St. We are seated in the auditorium of the International Teaching Centre (ITC) which is a relatively new facility and very modern. The 9 members of the ITC introduce themselves, one speaks for a few moments, then we enter a receiving line to meet each member personally. This is of course followed by a round of tea and cookies (a staple here!).

While others at this point have time to rest and eat a leisurely dinner, I have a dinner engagement with friends so hurry back down to the PRC. Zac and his friends have prepared a lovely meal for me and several Ghanaian friends also in our Pilgrimage group. Thankfully, the apartment they chose to do this at is only a block or so away from the PRC! They cook a traditional Ghanaian meal including peanut soup, jalal rice and salad. A nice respite from the grocery store food I’ve been eating! The youth are all very sweet and hospitable and we enjoy a wonderful, if brief, time together. Then it’s back down to the PRC for our evening talk. Tonight we hear from Universal House of Justice member Hooper Dunbar who is very humorous and personable. It’s a joy to listen to him and a great end to the day.

Tuesday - First Visit to Bahji


This morning I found the series of public stairs that led down to the PRC from my hotel. 483 stairs to be exact! Ouch! But much quicker than yesterday's route. After a 40 minute bus ride, we arrive for the first time this trip at Bahji, the resting place of Baha'ullah. It is difficult to describe the spirit present to those who haven't been here before. The spirit of God permeates the gardens even as the sweet smelling flowers of the garden permeate our senses. I wish there were a way to take a snapshot of the smells in the garden! I take off my shoes at the Shrine of Baha'u'llah and enter with an overwhelming sense of emotion. What happens when you step inside is a deeply personal and spiritual experience. An hour of prayers flies by without notice of the time and soon we must head back to the buses.

After a small lunch and a nice rest in the annex (darn buses make me so car sick!), we are escorted up the hill to the Seat of the Universal House of Justice. It's a massive yet regal building fit inside and out for receiving high officials. We are seated in the main hall and efficiently served tea and cookies by the staff. Once all has been cleared away, the Universal House of Justice joins us as a body. They pray with and speak to us collectively then disperse into the crowd where all 9 members personally greet each and every Pilgrim. It is a special moment to shake the hands of all 9 members and put faces and personalities to their names.

Another swift meal leads without delay into Dr. Varqa's second talk to the Pilgrims. He spoke tonight on the formation of the Universal House of Justice from the point of view of a Hand of the Cause. Again, a short break after this talk, and Violet Hatch of the International Teaching Centre addressed us, speaking on that Institution and sharing stories they hear from around the world.

I think I have never been so happy to go to bed at 9:30 in the evening! A wonderful but exhausting day is just the beginning...

Monday, November 07, 2005

1st Day of Pilgrimage (Monday 11/7/05)

So at 2:45 am this morning, I look at the alarm clock thinking, "It must be almost daylight!". Again at 4:00. And finally at 5:30 I give up sleeping and start my day. After a leisurely morning and breakfast, I begin the long down to the Pilgrim Reception Center (PRC). I know there are public stairs here somewhere that will lead me down to the lower streets, but I only seem to find the ones leading to someone's doorstep. So I take the long, but certain way and arrive at the PRC 40 minutes later. (Remember, this is all on the side of a rather large mountain so streets don't go straight up and down!) After registering at the PRC, I force the social side of myself out and get to know some people while waiting for the first orientation session. The theme today seems to be "hurry up and wait" (as my mom would say). So after orientation I step down to the neighborhood grocer to pick up fixings for an early lunch (I'm starving!), eat, chat some more, and wait... and wait... Until finally our guide's orientation begins (many of you will know Mrs. Grossman, a wonderful German lady who has served as a guide her for many years).

Then one of the highlights -- the first visit to the Shrine of the Bab. For those who have never visited the Baha'i Gardens before, this must surely be a special moment. I was here, however, several years ago on a 3 day visit so I know what to expect and the experience, while wonderful, is not as moving for me as it is for some of our large group. By the time we finish prayers in the Shrine, the sun is nearly set and the wind has picked up, making it chilly. I spend a few minutes on the terrace immediately below the Shrine taking pictures then head back to the warmth of the PRC. Also, I wanted to make sure and get a front row seat for the talk by Hand of the Cause Dr. Varqa. What a pleasure to hear him speak, even though I was beginning to get tired and hungry. That ended the program for the day so I headed to catch a sherut to an unknown dinner. But I was pleasantly surprised to meet up with my finace's brother and 2 of his friends who work at the Baha'i World Center and managed to get them to take me somewhere for dinner. Wonderfully nice boys (all from Ghana) and all very much gentlemen. They will be hosting an African party Friday evening, so I'm sure to have lots of fun then! A quick dinner, then they escorted me to my hotel where I promptly crashed for the night.

Traveling to Haifa

The journey to Pilgrimage officially began when I checked into Newark airport for my trans-Atlantic flight to Tel Aviv Saturday night. Who would've imagined a daily flight to Tel Aviv from the USA would be completely full? I don't think there was a spare seat to be had on the plane. The usual cramped quarters and uncomfortable sleeping applies, as does mediocre food and bad television programming. Thankfully, I was able to sleep most of the flight so time passed quickly. The descent through the clouds was the only time I noticed turbulance (always makes me airsick), then a smooth landing took us into Ben Gurion airport. There's always talk about how it can be difficult to get through customs in a country like this, and I suppose there are some who had a difficult time explaining their purpose here. But for me, it was smooth sailing all the way. The customs agent asked no questions, I found my suitcase to be already on the carousel, and went straight to my sharut (shuttle) bus headed towards Haifa.

Ah, the sharut. Basically, it's a minivan packed as full as it can be of passengers heading to the same general area, to be dropped off at their respective locations. A shared taxi. (For soon-to-be travelers, the going rate is 56 NIS.) If you've ever taken a taxi in a large city like New York or Chicago, you have some idea of the ride to Haifa. Add in more aggressive drivers, hills and curves, and no air conditioning and you have my sharut. I tend to get carsick on a straight road with a sane driver, so this was not a pleasant ride for me. But my eyelids were heavy and I somehow managed to sleep a good portion of the ride which helped immensly. Finally the driver stopped at my hotel, unloaded my suitcase, and left me to fend for myself.

The Dan Gardens hotel is a small but very nice place with a great view of the Bay of Haifa and the city below (remember we're on Mount Carmel here!). I had researched the hotel (of course!) prior to booking and others noted the stair access into the hotel. They failed to mention it's 2 flights of stairs and I'm carrying my slightly heavy and awkward suitcase! But I made it and when the elevator broke, the nice men of the hotel carried it up to the 4th floor for me. On my last trip to Haifa (for a 3 day visit), I stayed at the Hotel Nof which is slightly closer to the Baha'i Gardens where I am to spend most of my time. I was not impressed at the Nof and found it to be sticky and slightly run-down. I figured it was par for the course in a Middle Eastern country until I arrived at the Dan Gardens last night. The room is a lovely rectangular room with windows along the long wall looking over the bay. A closet with shelves so I can unpack my clothes, a television with cable, and a very comfortable bed. Oh, and of course (as you've noticed) wireless internet access in the room. It's $5 for an hour or $15 for a day, but at least it's private access on my own computer. I'm so glad I read that somewhere in my research and brought my laptop.

No restaurant in the Dan Gardens, so I went on the recommendation of the desk clerk just down the street to an Argentenian restaurant (El Gaucho). It was nice and I was able to eat a small meal before calling it a night. Now I'm in bed at 9:00 and ready to get on with the trip tomorrow. The formal Pilgrimage starts in the morning!

Thursday, November 03, 2005

Baha'i Pilgrimage

After being on the waiting list for 7 years, I finally have to bounty of taking my first Baha'i Pilgrimage. For those who don't know what this is, click here to find out more.

I arrive in Haifa Sunday afternoon (their time) and will be there for 10 days. I know I'll be taking a million pictures (okay, maybe only several hundred) and hope to keep up an online journal (if I can connect via my laptop). Check back while I'm gone for the latest update on my adventures!